All the cafes I’ve included in my Goa travel guide are vegan/vegetarian friendly, offer free wifi and remain open even during the monsoon months:

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Bean Me Up (Anjuna)

It took me forever to try the food at Bean Me Up, because I typically land up in Goa during the rainy season when it used to be closed. But I finally got beaned up in 2019 – both during a spring trip and their decision to open part of the resto during monsoon.

I now know what the hype is all about – for Bean Me Up serves up an incredibly diverse plant-based menu. I love their ‘taste of the middle east’, Buddha Bowl and tofulafel wrap. Oh and it would be a travesty to leave without trying their insanely good chocolate mousse cake!

Saraya (Saligao)

I’m almost embarrassed by how often I’ve shown up at Saraya over the years – thanks to their farm-to-table food from their own organic garden!

My favorites are the Summertime Sandwich with minced mushrooms and vegan cashew cheese, the homemade hummus and toasted pita bread, and the wood-fired vegan pizza (served only at night). Don’t miss the lemongrass and mint iced tea!

Ruta’s Roadhouse (Assagao)

Ruta’s Roadhouse is one of my favorite cafes to work from in Goa. I can see myself sitting by the dome shaped windows overlooking the wilderness on a rainy day, while indulging in homemade hummus and Moroccan style chickpea curry and couscous.

Café Bodega (Panjim)

While running errands around Panjim, I make it a point to grab an eggplant-hummus sandwich at Café Bodega. Built around a sunny, green courtyard, it offers respite from the city and would’ve been my hangout of choice if they had more vegan options.

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Offbeat things to do in Goa

Sunday mornings at Museum of Goa

Something we would’ve never known had our hostess at Secret Garden not tipped us off. Every Sunday morning, locals and expats meet up at Museum of Goa (MOG) in Bardez for a talk / discussion by Goans doing something unique. We saw a short play by a theatre startup, followed by an interesting discussion on Konkan vs international theatre. The following week was a documentary screening by a local artist. I think it’s a great way to connect with the creative side of Goa.

Have a beach to yourself in the rains (easier than trying to find offbeat beaches in Goa!)

Truth be told, the grey beaches of Goa don’t do much for me. But I’d take the coast in the monsoon over the December crowds anyday – with grey skies, roaring waves and beaches like Little Vagator and Ashwem almost entirely to myself.

Kayak on the backwaters

Back in the day, I had no idea Goa even had backwaters, let along kayaking on them. Scratching the surface slowly, I learnt from my hosts at Cancio’s House about discovering Goa’s secret mangroves on kayak. So on a rainy July afternoon, we set out rowing into the untouched backwaters of northern Goa. Amid the mangroves, we heard peacock cries and spotted eagles on barren trees – all while getting drenched in the rain. What an experience!

Go on a sunrise heritage walk

I’m not a morning person, but I made a vow to be awake for more sunrises, and managed it on my last day in Goa this monsoon. I’m glad I did, because seeing those rice paddies shrouded in mist is totally worth it. You can do it yourself, or join a heritage walk (complete with offbeat locations and quirky stories) with Subodh Kerkar, the founder of MOG.

Show up for a jazz night

It’s one thing to hit the discotheques in Goa with other travellers, quite another to dance with locals to jazz music at a neighborhood joint (Cantare in Saligao for example) till the wee hours of the morning – it’s not my thing, but it could become yours!